No visit to Mumbai can possibly be complete without a visit to Crawford Markets in South Bombay. Commissioned in 1869 by Sir Arthur Crawford, the site was thoughtfully designed as the main wholesale market for the city, until 1966 when the wholesale markets were relocated to Navi Mumbai. This beautiful structure then morphed itself into the main markets for the local population - hosting hundreds of stalls and shops selling absolutely anything you could possibly want, at the very best of prices!
On entering the markets, you are totally assaulted by intense smells that fluctuate between extreme fragrance to outright shockingly bad odour (depending on which part of the markets you are in!), a mish-mash of colour and frenetic activity as stall holders and shoppers alike holler above each other, coolies dart around with baskets on their heads filled with shoppers purchases, people tug at your arms to sample their wares, touts abound all vying for your attention. Crawford Markets epitomize that unique dichotomy of Bombay - antiquity in coexistance with the modern. The market itself is pure and brilliant antiquity. A rare and wonderful experience.
The structure itself is a listed Grade 1 historic building. The core structure of the markets is of Norman and Gothic architecture, adorned with freizes and a fountain designed by Lockwood Kipling (father of Rudyard Kipling) - and features an imposing landmark clock tower covered in Victorian carvings.
Part of Mumbai's municipal governments hardest tasks has to be the town planning of this overpopulated city, balancing the retention of the many unique historical buildings while progressing with the development of an infrastructure worthy of its status as the commercial capital of the subcontinent.
Unfortunately, it appears that Crawford Markets days are numbered. The townplanners have designated the markets for redevelopment. Various plans have been submitted for the remodelling, originally with a new design commissioned to retain the feel and history of the existing architecture - however over time, this redevelopment appears to now be in the form of a mall.
A mall. With parking.
One of the first things that struck me about South Bombay when I first came here was the incredible architecture and parks. The city that was developed by early british administrators from an organic settlement to a world class city with good infrastructure and public institutions built with the responsibility and forethought to create landmark buildings. You can see and feel the importance that the British Raj placed on this city by its grandness and beauty, which was once the main entrance to India. Mumbaikars are proud of, and recognise, the beauty that this early architecture lends to the city.
There are associations and organisations doing their best to remind and influence the powers that be to retain the great historical buildings of Mumbai. And I, like the radicals no doubt, totally understand the pressing need to urbanise and improve the infrastructure.
But a mall?
I sincerely hope that the current administration find the balance between retention of Mumbai's glorious past, and the growth of its brilliant and shiny future in a historically sensitive manner.
On entering the markets, you are totally assaulted by intense smells that fluctuate between extreme fragrance to outright shockingly bad odour (depending on which part of the markets you are in!), a mish-mash of colour and frenetic activity as stall holders and shoppers alike holler above each other, coolies dart around with baskets on their heads filled with shoppers purchases, people tug at your arms to sample their wares, touts abound all vying for your attention. Crawford Markets epitomize that unique dichotomy of Bombay - antiquity in coexistance with the modern. The market itself is pure and brilliant antiquity. A rare and wonderful experience.
The structure itself is a listed Grade 1 historic building. The core structure of the markets is of Norman and Gothic architecture, adorned with freizes and a fountain designed by Lockwood Kipling (father of Rudyard Kipling) - and features an imposing landmark clock tower covered in Victorian carvings.
Part of Mumbai's municipal governments hardest tasks has to be the town planning of this overpopulated city, balancing the retention of the many unique historical buildings while progressing with the development of an infrastructure worthy of its status as the commercial capital of the subcontinent.
Unfortunately, it appears that Crawford Markets days are numbered. The townplanners have designated the markets for redevelopment. Various plans have been submitted for the remodelling, originally with a new design commissioned to retain the feel and history of the existing architecture - however over time, this redevelopment appears to now be in the form of a mall.
A mall. With parking.
One of the first things that struck me about South Bombay when I first came here was the incredible architecture and parks. The city that was developed by early british administrators from an organic settlement to a world class city with good infrastructure and public institutions built with the responsibility and forethought to create landmark buildings. You can see and feel the importance that the British Raj placed on this city by its grandness and beauty, which was once the main entrance to India. Mumbaikars are proud of, and recognise, the beauty that this early architecture lends to the city.
There are associations and organisations doing their best to remind and influence the powers that be to retain the great historical buildings of Mumbai. And I, like the radicals no doubt, totally understand the pressing need to urbanise and improve the infrastructure.
But a mall?
I sincerely hope that the current administration find the balance between retention of Mumbai's glorious past, and the growth of its brilliant and shiny future in a historically sensitive manner.
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